An Island New Year

During the time between Christmas and New Year’s, the village hosted a week-long celebration in the maneaba.  Most families brought their sleeping mats to the venue and took up residency for the week.  The nights were filled with various activities from dancing to eating to viewing imported Chinese films with various German subtitles.  More often than not, these nights lasted well into the early morning hours.  One of the films was someone’s recording of a movie shown in a theater.  This allowed us to not only watch the movie, but also to watch theater patrons as they went in and out of the theater for popcorn, drinks or to use the bathroom.  I often fell asleep in the maneaba on coconuts, cups or whatever else was around during these events.  

With all of the late nights, New Year’s Eve seemed to come quickly.  To escape the constant celebrations, all Peace Corps Trainees and staff planned a quiet camping event for the new year.  I, along with the other three male volunteers, were charged with setting up a secluded site in the bush.  Setting up lines for mosquito nets, collecting firewood, and digging a beach-side pit for the bonfire, our site was set within a few hours’ time.  Our I-Kiribati families questioned us as to why we were working in the bush for so long when we returned.  They feared for our safety, because the bush was where dead bodies lay, and spirits resided.   I knew nothing of this. 

Even more perplexing than wandering around the bush at night, was our plan to celebrate New Year’s with a bonfire.  I-Kiribati use fire for practical purposes such as burning trash or cooking food.  We were doing neither of these.  Collecting fallen branches for a fire with no use confused even our trainers.  Despite this, the bonfire was a huge success. It provided us with a sense of familiarity as we watched the first sunrise of the new millennium +1.   

New Year 2001 on the shore of Maiana Island

By the end of training, all 27 Peace Corps Trainees had survived bouts of homesickness, weeks of confusion, countless cultural mistakes, physical ailment, exhilarating travel experiences with accompanying episodes of seasickness, seemingly constant celebrations and weeks of stealth 3am dance practices.  We were sworn in as K-27 on January 23, 2001.  We were to receive our official assignments upon arrival in Tarawa.

K-27 Peace Corps Swearing In January 23, 2001

Leaving Maiana was both exciting and sad as all volunteers developed a strong connection with their families. While most of the goodbyes took place in the village, some families traveled to the boat. Some students, my host sister included, took the boat back to Tarawa for the new school year. The next day volunteers gathered to learn our assignments. I was assigned to a Primary school in Abaiang Island, just north of Tarawa.

I-Kiribati: People from Kiribati 

Maneaba: Traditional meeting house
Abaiang:  Island due north of Tarawa "Northern Land"